It's been a long time since my last wild camp. A long, cold, wet time. Finally, the weather has found out that it's Spring, so it was time to get the bivi bag out again.
I'm heading north, to Herts. A loop based on a
Central London CTC ride, but quite different by the time I'd finished planning it. I have a new tarp to try out, super light, super cheap and super small. I got it from AliExpress, where you never quite know what you will get but it's so cheap it seems worth a try. The idea is that the bivi bag is waterproof, so I just need to cover my head. Let's see how that goes ...
I aimed for the Ace Cafe in Wembley for 11s, but it was too soon after breakfast, so pressed on to Borehamwood and "Britain's Worst Wetherspoons", the Hart and Spool, for a late elevenses break. It wasn't that bad. Quite small, with slower service, and useful tidbits of information on the walls. For example: Erroll Flynn,visited Borehamwood while filming his last film at Elstree Studios. Four years later, he died. Coincidence? It is not recorded whether he visited the Hart & Spool before his demise.
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| Bridleway under the A1M |
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| Service station on a bridleway? |
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| South Mimms Services, back entrance |
Leaving Borehamwood past Elstree Studios (just like every other studios: a series of large boxes), I was immediately in the countryside. I was on NCN 12, The Great North Way, which briefly became a very muddy bridleway as it crossed under the A1M. More or less following the A1M north on the old London to Holyhead road, until Hatfield and Welwyn Garden City made for a hectic ride with their combination of many cycleways, many junctions and pretty fast traffic on the roads. Safe but complicated to navigate. I continued north to Knebworth for a cafe lunch. This was the start of the circuit to the west and north.
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| Great North Way to Holyhead via Knebworth |
After lunch, the sun came out and all was well with the world. My route zig-zagged west, riding on beautiful lanes. No traffic, a few tasty hills (for a loaded bike, anyway), and views to die for. It's downs country - not like the North Downs; like the Wiltshire downs only dotted with little woods. One larger wood was spectacular, filled with bluebells in every direction. It started off just undulating and got hillier as I went west towards the Chilterns. It's not racing country: there's too much gravel and visibility is poor; just right for taking your time and absorbing ... everything and nothing that's going on around you. Free therapy.
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| Bluebells |
I was enjoying myself so much, I went a further than expected, ending in Bedfordshire at Barton-le-Cley for a late tea. It had two average looking pubs, and neither seemed to have food, so after some rehydration, I shopped at Co-op in a big way, buying far too much food. I had spotted some "access land" (common land) nearby so scouted it out. It was up a very steep hill, but the views from the top were amazing. The grass was covered with cowslips, and I didn't want to camp on them, or the path, so I found another place in the woods, and settled in, a bit too early, to make a sumptuous tea, using the new hand-crafted Trangia burner stand made by Tony Hopkins. It worked well and made a very tasty Pot Noodle.
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| View north west (unsuitable for camping) |
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| View east (unsuitable for camping) |
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| Suitable for camping |
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| Evening meal |
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| Half a tarp |
The campsite in the woods was beautiful, quiet and overlooking the plain down below to the west, with a wonderful sunset through the trees. I was all ready for bed by 9.30, slightly sheltered by the new mini tarp. It wasn't a complete success as I only had one length of cord to rig it up with. Still learning ...
I fell asleep with the moon in my face and the sound of owls in my ears. Slept well, awaking once to put all my clothes on in the pre-dawn cold. The owls woke me again just before 5am, at first light. After a cup of tea I was packed and on the road just after 6am, with empty roads, pretty villages and plenty of wildlife (and birdsong) to enjoy. I saw several rabbits, three separate muntjac deer and a hare, plus a slug rather foolishly going somewhere along the road.
Breakfast was a Co-op meal deal purchased last night, on a roadside bench; then a second breakfast with hot chocolate at Codicote around 9am, by which time I'd done most of the day's climbing. Lots of riding on ridges and a sort of plateau giving great views, before I was on a disused railway line through woods back to Welwyn Garden City. I saw a better side of Welwyn this time, maybe because the sun was out.
Another ex-railway took me to Hertford for elevenses. Hertford is a nice compact place.
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| Hertford Castle |
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| Hertford ("stabling and a motor pit") |
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| Hertford Brewery |
The river Lee goes through Hertford and my plan was to follow it to Stratford. A nice cycle path to Ware (Where? Yes, Ware), then on to Waltham Abbey, with a bit of rough stuff, but very scenic. Then it was pretty well straight south to Stratford; a long way on a towpath, but it felt like the countryside, and the sun was shining, so I broke it up with frequent stops. The best of these was the Lee Valley White Water centre, the Olympic venue, with a big cafe and plenty to see. Onto the Elizabeth Line at Stratford: just over an hour to get to Southall, and a few miles ride home.
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| River Lee to Ware |
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| Ware |
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| River Lee to Waltham Abbey |
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| Dobbs Weir on the River Lee, Hoddesdon |
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| Lee Valley White Water Centre |
