Autumn tour in Essex

En-route to another adventure

Finally, some dry weather after a pretty rubbish summer.  I had a couple of free days, so decided to try out Essex for size,  a solo for camping trip.  I had a long ambition to try out riding in Epping Forest, so that was the first ten (it's big!) miles.  Then north in quiet lanes to a campsite on a farm, Pightle Farm, at the corner of Essex, Cambs and Herts.   Also the highest point in Essex, I was disappointed to find out later.

That was the plan.  A variety of trains took me and my bike to Wood Street at the south of Epping Forest and I set off into the beautiful forest, wide avenues between oak trees full of autumn colour.   There are many paths and some are better than others.  After finding myself on a very muddy, path where my wheels kept sliding sideways, I did a bit of walking then a bit back on the road, before finding a better path, wide and gravelly.   It's beautiful,  but I should have picked my route more carefully.

Epping Forest tracks

Epping itself marks the north end of the forest, and was full of queues of traffic, and lots of families shopping for plastic Halloween tat.  It was 1pm and I had nearly 40 miles to do before sunset, so it was a quick lunch outside Greggs before setting off into the countryside.

From there on, it was like a different world.  Up the west side of Essex.  No traffic, small lanes, no towns, no cafés (there was a solitary Londis), and beautiful countryside with the odd lovely thatched cottage here and there.   It had an off the beaten track feel.   I expected it to be hilly but it was more rolling countryside, quite high up with extensive views.  I went quite close to Stansted Airport at one stage, but I only sat two planes landing, and no Airport traffic.

Essex lanes and villages

A very enjoyable,  relaxed day of cycling with quiet weather, no wind, mostly cloudy but with the odd sunny spell lighting up the colours.  As dusk fell, lights started coming on in the thatched cottages,  making them look even more cosy.  I got to the farm just before sunset (4.30pm), pitched the tent and high-tailed it to the local pub, the Red Cow.  It looked pricey, £30 for a main course, so I had bought a steak slice for my tea, but when I got there, they were offering Tuesday fish & chips for £10.25.  Delicious.

Last light

I spent a happy evening ear-wigging the other customers swapping stories, (one of whom was a Dolly Parton tribute singer, and another was a close friend of Steve Marriott of the Small Faces), and re-hydrating, before heading back to my solitary dark tent.  The campsite closes on 31 Oct and I was the only customer tonight.  Except ... I had company.  I disturbed a mouse when I returned.   It clearly had designs on my steak slice.

Day 2: Wednesday 

My camping spot

In bed by 8pm, and slept till 7am.   Not bad.  I thought I heard the mouse again, so made a noise like a lion and scared him off.  Anyway, I'd hidden the food.  Steak slice for breakfast (not as nice as it sounds), packed, washed, and away by 8.30.

The plan today is to - you've guessed it - head back south, via a few towns I liked the sound of, a bit further east, to Shenfield, the end of the Elizabeth line.  Same weather: no wind, grey skies, 14 degrees maximum.

It was decidedly hilly.  After riding seven miles to Saffron Walden, I'd clocked up 200 metres of climbing.   Saffron Walden is a nice town with plenty of important looking old buildings.   More hills took me to Thaxted, a real gem of a place with beautiful old buildings.  It reminded me of Shaftesbury with its hilltop church.  It even had an ancient cobbled Street, like Gold Hill.

Ye olde car park at Saffron Walden

Thaxted

Still Thaxted

Elevenses was at Great Dunmow, which wasn't quite as great as its name after Thaxted and Saffron Walden.  After Dunmow, things looked up.  I was back on the high plain, on quiet lanes wriggling across the fields without any apparent logic.  Easy riding to the outskirts of Chelmsford, and then the last ten miles was back on the lanes, a few colourful woods and pretty villages.   I expected Shenfield to be just a built-up suburb of Brentwood,  but in fact it looked an attractive place, probably up-and-coming with the arrival of the Elizabeth line.

Cycle lane to Wittle, near Chelmsford

Blackmore

Arrived at Shenfield Station just before 3pm, hone before 5pm - well done TfL!  It has been a very enjoyable exploration of parts of Essex.  Highly recommended if you fancy trying it: there are alternatives to camping in Saffron Walden, Cambridge, or Royston, all nearby.