Sou'Westers On Tour: South Wales Day 3: Fishguard or bust

It's been such a varied ride. The industrial heritage of the valleys; the wild outdoors and mountains of the Gwynmo Forest; seaside Wales, the Millennium cycleway and a glimpse of the cities; and then today was a tour of the lush agricultural land around Carmarthen before, surprisingly, traversing moors and fells.

My GPS told me that there were five Climbs on day one. It's choosy: not all hills count. Day two had zero Climbs - shocker - although it was still a very hilly day. Today had ten Climbs, which was worrying.

I slept like a log in my disused campsite, waking up just before dawn to very wet grass and a damp tent, which soon dried in the warm sun. It was already sweltering when I set off after breakfast in Carmarthen, almost immediately encountering steep hills. The landscape is reminiscent of west Devon or Cornwall, with small lanes winding across steep hills and valleys. For a change, I was on roads for the while day, but I hardly saw a car outside of the villages, and towns. The farmers were all busy mowing or turning hay, everywhere you looked.

By lunchtime I was gasping, and running out of water. I went past several closed pubs (Monday lunchtime doesn't seem to be peak drinking time). Outside one of them, a kind gentleman filled my bottles, and then gave me directions to Fishguard. Well-meaning but not useful, as his route probably used the main road. By now it was 28 degrees, and eventually I found and raided a Spar.

After twenty miles of beautiful tortuous lanes and torturous hills, the landscape changed completely, to grand open moorland with giant hills, more like the lakeland fells. Gorgeous, expansive views, and luckily I was often following ridges or valleys, with long gentle descents and climbs. It was lovely. But exposed to the sun, so very hot.

The sea!

When I started this trip, I had the bright idea of returning across Wales, a bit further north, to Ryayader, the Elan Vslley, Hay on Wye, the Gospel Pass, and back south to the coast, subject to legs and weather. By now my legs had made their decision. Every hill required bottom gear. My feet hurt. My hands hurt. My shoulders hurt. Sweat was dripping off my nose. Another time, maybe.

Ten miles to go. I saw the sea! The last three Climbs, and when I was a mile or so from Fishguard, in Llanychaer, there was an open pub. I couldn't resist. Even better there was a campsite opposite. In a jumbled rush, I pitched my tent, dumped my bags, drank a couple of pints (soft drinks), showered, and turned from a repulsive sweaty blob into a human being again. Food was an eat-in takeaway pizza (eaten out of a cardboard box in the shop in Fishguard).

Fishguard harbour

A big day, a bit too hot but glorious scenery. Back home tomorrow. 171 miles, around 171 hills, three nights camping (including two wild camps), and 3400 metres of ascent. It's been a great ride in wonderful weather, and I've loved seeing a bit more of Wales - even the hills. Thank you Wales, and the wonderful Welsh people, for your welcome.

PS. Day 4

See the sights of Fishguard, visit several coffee shops to fill the time, return by train from Fishguard to Cardiff on a sweltering train (not good after camping - I'm glad nobody sat next to me), Cardiff to Reading to Southall & ride home. Total mileage about 10 miles.